Adult acne is unpredictable, annoying and put you in a bad mood… I can do my best treating your problem with my hands, tools, products etc but sometimes you have to change your life style, diet or skin care regimen.
Four main causes of acne:
- Increased keratinization within follicle
- Increased sebum production
- Proliferation of Propionibacterium acnes
- Inflammation
There are several types of acne.Once you know what type of acne you suffer from,you will be better prepared to find the best acne treatment.
Adult acne is caused by sebum, an oily substance produced by the skin’s sebaceous glands.Sebum clogs pores,which attract bacteria and become inflamed. Sleep deprivation and stress can cause hormonal changes that make your body more susceptible to breakouts. Stress can worsen acne by leading to a release of inflammatory chemicals called neuropeptides and hormonal changes.Stress hormone “Cortisol” tells your sebaceous glands to produce more oil.(Oily skin is more prone to acne and other skin problems)
Types of acne
*Acne Simplex
The most common form of acne.This form of acne is typically caused by excess release of sebum,a type of oil,into the hair follicles
1. Blackheads
Non-inflamed clogged pores.It caused by excess oils that have accumulated in a sebaceous gland’s duct.It consists of keratin and sebum which darkens as it oxidize.
2. Whiteheads
They form when oil and dead cells are trapped beneath the surface of the skin,creating a bump without inflammation
3. Papules
They are caused by an oily mixture that clogs hair follicles trapped beneath the surface of the skin. They are tender ,red and inflamed.
*Acne Vulgaris
4. Pustules
They are filled with a mixture of oil and bacteria that’s trapped beneath the skin’s surface.They are often hard,painful and cause inflammation.
5. Cysts and Nodules
They are sever forms of acne that extend deep into the skin.The Nodules are solid,inflamed bumps.Cysts are generally larger than nodules containing liquid or semi-liquid material consisting of white blood cells,dead cells and bacteria.The depth and inflammation associated with cystic acne can destroy the follicle,resulting in scarring.
They are often associated with scars,pain and longer recovery periods.
How do you treat them?
If you have conditions of 1,2,3 or 4,you should set up a skin care regimen at home,schedule monthly or weekly facial-(depends on your skin condition) with extractions, light–medium chemical peels, microdermabrasion and light therapy.
Salicylic Acid (BHA),is delivered from the bark of the willow tree.It penetrates the oil-filled pores and exfoliates dead cells that have built up inside.It works as a peeling agent and increase skin’s turnover.BHA can treat dandruff,calluses,corns,keratosis pilaris and warts as well.
Benzoyl Peroxide is more aggressive than Salicylic acid .It will work similar to salicylic acid but more powerful to dry up existing blemishes.Start conservatively with 5% concentration once a day and increase use to twice a day after a week or 2 if you are not using or taking other medication.
RetinA (Tretinoin) will speed up cell turnover rates,exfoliates and decrease the buildup of dead cells within the follicles.It may take 2-3 months for noticeable improvement to occur.It makes your skin to peel and become more sensitive to the sun. It may cause redness and dryness as well. You must wear Sunscreen when you are using RetinA.
If you have conditions of 5,Chemical peels and laser treatment such as IPL will kill acne-causing bacteria.If facial with advanced treatment didn’t help,you may have to see a dermatologist.Doctor will prescribe anti-biotics .
Accutane belongs to the family of medicines called retinoids,which are similar to VitaminA.It helps to reduce number of bacteria in the sebaceous gland and on the skin surface.Blood testing is done frequently when taking Accutane,as it can affect blood cell count and levels.Side effects can be serious .It may cause dehydration,dizziness,depression and birth defects.
Oral contraceptive (for women) helps to balance the hormone.Androgen,a group of hormones that includs testosterone,stimulate your skin to produce sebum.Oral contraceptive contain both estrogen and progesterone lowers the amount of androgen in your body.
Cortisone shot can be injected directly into an area of inflammation.Healing usually begins immediately especially on cystic acne.Side effects including sunken or depressed appearance in injected area.This side effect is temporary but can take several months to return to normal.
Cyctic acne lesions sometimes require both drainage and injection with cortisone.Drainage helps to remove pus and the keratin plug.Injection works by reducing the inflammatory reaction.
*Asphyxiated Acne
It’s characterized by a rough surface keratolytic buildup and reduced cell turnover with sebum and other debris trapped beneath.
*Acne Rosacea
It’s common in individuals over the age of 30 and occurs more frequently in women.
Less common than Acne Vulgaris but it causes bumps and inflammation that resemble those typical of acne vulgaris.It’s a chronic condition.The symptoms may be controlled but it’s not curable.A dermatologist will recommend antibiotics.Lasertreatment will eliminate visible blood vessels beneath the skin.Reducing alcohol intake to prevent possible skin irritation during outbreaks.
*Hormonal Acne
It’s common in adolescence and is typically accompanied by an overproduction of sebum.Cyclical breakouts are often seen in females in the perioral area and hormonal acne may present itself at any stage in life when hormones fluctuate (e.g. pregnancy,menopause,oral contraceptives)
How to reduce your stress?
Stress reducing activities (regular exercise,meditation,yoga,)can lower cortisol levels and get more oxygen to your skin cells.
Take time for your self to do something you enjoy (Once a day even just for 15 minutes)
Say “No”It’s ok to set limits and boundaries to lower your stress. (Do this moderately because I don’t want you to lose your job or your marriage life)
Talk to someone.Your partner or Friends,(real friends should understand your stress and listen everything without judging you) ,Family (if you are close to them,you are lucky!),Professional therapist (who doesn’t need his or her own therapist)or even esthetician(caring and naturing one) may give you a good advice!
Change the diet
High-carbohydrate diets with high-glycemic index increase the development and severity of breakouts.Try increase your intake of dark,leafy vegetables such as kale or spinach.They are rich in fiber,Vitamin A and C.Vitamin 6 and B12 will reduce anxiety and stress,Vitamin E works as a skin repair and Zinc for clear healthy skin!