SCIENCE OF THE CHEMICAL PEEL
Risks and benefits of chemical facial peels
The procedure can restore a more youthful appearance to skin and reduce wrinkles, uneven pigmentation, sun-damage and blotchy patches, however, certain risks are associated with deeper peels. These risks include scarring, infection, swelling, change of skin tone and cold sore outbreaks.
For darker complexions, several lighter peels are suggested for discolorations (2 weeks intervals) rather than one medium peel. Asian skin can generally tolerate light and medium depth peels, (Glycolic acid 30-40%,Salicylic acid) TCA 10%, Jessners, or Vi peel. For lighter skin, stronger peels have proven to be more effective.
Light peels
Light peel, also called Lunchtime peel speed up the renewal process on the top layer of the skin, epidermis.
It will provide instant luminous complexion without downtime.It will reduce fine lines, acne, uneven pigmentation and areas of dryness. The solution used for light chemical peel is usually comprised of Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHA) such as glycolic, lactic, citric, malic andBeta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)-such as salicylic acid which goes little deeper into the skin for better acne control.Low strength of TCA and Retinoic acid can be mixed in.
Medium depth peels
Penetrate more deeply, getting to the border or the dermis to remove the top few layers of the skin where many blemishes, sun spots and imperfections live.More effective at stimulating collagen to tighten the skin.
Many doctors use TCA (Trichloacetic acid) usually in concentration of 20-35% sometimes in combination with glycolic acid. Concentration can go as high as 50% but that comes with higher risk of scarring, and anything over 35% must be carefully applied by experienced esthetician .
TCA takes off the epidermis and upper dermis, resulting in collagen stimulation, as well as improving lines, pigmentation and pre-cancerous lesions. 35% TCA is considered deep and downtime will be 7-10 days.
Deep peels
The chemical used for deep peel is Phenol ,made from carbolic acid.
It will treat coarse facial wrinkles ,sever sun damage and blotchiness caused by aging or sun exposure and pre-cancerous growth. Deep peels require sedation and come with the risks of dramatically lighten skin (Hypopigmentation) and that dreaded demarcation between the face and neck due to pigment cell damage that occurs within the procedure.
CONTRAINDICATIONS
You are not a good candidate for chemical peels if:
You have taken accutane in the last 6 months.
You currently have Psorisis, Eczema or Dermatitis .
You are nursing or pregunant. (Light peel may be ok)
You’ve used Retin-A, Renova, or any strong bleaching creams such as Hydroquinone 4%in the last 48 hours.
You currently have an active helpes simplex.
You have a sunburn, skin lacerations or infections.
Aftercare
No Sun exposure
Apply Sun protection (SPF 30 or more)
Keep moisturizing the skin
Never peel off the skin
No exercise for 48 hours
No sauna or steam room for 48 hours
*A chemical peel is designed to remove layers of skin through the body’s natural peeling process to reveal the fresh skin beneath.
Sweating through exercise may cause the skin to peel prematurely leaving you with red,sore areas that have not fully healed.
MICRODERMABRASION THEORY
Microdermabrasion improves the appearance of several aspects of the skin.
Microdermabrasion is very good at improving skin radiance and it provides a smooth surface including stretch marks and acne scars but it doesn’t get rid of them.Stretch marks are scars and acne scars are defect in the dermis.Any scar is a defect in the dermis,since only dermis injury results in scarring.The epidermis can completely regenerate,which is why epidermis wounds are less likely to scar.
Microdermabrasion can remove the skin scale that contains the pigment making the skin more even-colored.However,it is possible for the lentigenes and seborrheic keratoses to reappear as the skin cells again produce irregular pigment,making the improvement temporary.
Repeated Microdermabrasion can have a longer lasting impact on the amount of ground substance in the skin responsible for holding water. The minor skin injury induced by microdermabrasion may cause wounding that encourages the skin to heal.Thehealing can stimulate the replacement of skin structure and improve the appearance of photoaged skin.
As the skin ages,the bonds between the cells do break as easily and the dead skin can accumulate.This is why exfoliation produces a benefit in mature skin.Microdermabrasion can return the skin exfoliation process to a normal rate if performed on a recurring basis.
IPL vs LASER
IPL stands for Intense Pulsed Light.While not technically a “Laser”,IPL devices produce a very powerful and quick flash light that can be absorbed by skin that has unwanted superficial vessels or pigmented lesions in the brown spectrum of color.Sincethese colors absorb the energy of IPL,they will diminish over time and several treatments.
IPL,the light waves are not collimated (don’t line up exactly in straight line,)as a laser beam.It’s multi-wavelength and scattered light.IPL light can be selected to treat a wider range of targets at the same time because it used a broad band of different wavelength at the same time.
IPL involves minimal downtime and can be quite effective in reducing redness including rosacea and pigmentation over a series of 3 to 6 treatments 4-6 weeks apart.
Laser delivers a collimated beam of light in a single wavelength.This beam is more effective and precise since single wavelength specifically target only Water ,or only Melanin,or only Hemoglobin.
CAUSION
Ethnic skin with pre-exsisting pigmentation problem should exhaust other modalities such as bleaching cream/ or Microdermabrasion prior to IPL or Laser facial treatment for there may be a risk of worsening pigmentation.
